Tuesday 28 June 2016

0549 Buffalo to the Bear Tooth Pass

27th June 2016
Across the plains of Wyoming to the exciting Bear Tooth Pass

I took my time packing up this morning, and also took the opportunity to refill my propane bottle, although I don’t think the guy did a very good job as it still seems very light – Only time will tell. The plan today was to drive across Wyoming, much of which I had seen on previous visits, partly because my ex employer has a big bentonite mill out here, and I have visited it aon a number of occasions, including on my Elise trip in 2012.  And last night I had finally realized that my rear tyres were not going to last as long as I had hoped, with one of them showing severe wear on the inside edge, to the point where I was somewhat concerned about how long it would last – I needed to look for tyres.


I was already well over 6000 ft asl when I set off, and heading into the Big Horn National Forest we climbed through forests up to over 8000 ft, with some great views over the still snowcapped peaks of the Cloud Peak Wilderness, with one reaching up over 12,000 ft.  Not only is the scenery pretty good, but at this time of year the wildflowers provide a riot of colour in the open areas and beside the road.We drove over the Powder River Pass at 9666 feet, and then down through the winding Tensleep Canyon with its impressive rock outcrops above.  At one stage I saw a dead
deer beside the road with a turkey buzzard (vulture) having a feast, but by the time I went back to have a closer look he had flown up into a nearby tree and watched me from a safe distance – Such ugly birds !

The little town of Ten Sleep is a bit of a run down cowboy-style place, yet fully in sync with the surrounding countryside out here in country Wyoming.  From there it was out to Worland and then north through Manderson towards Greybull.  One minute you are driving across rolling plains, and the next
you are cutting through a canyon, and the colours are changing all the time from rich reds to bright greens near the rivers, to the pale hills of the more bentonitic formations as we approach Greybull, the heart of the global oil industries source for the viscosifying clay used in drilling, Wyoming Bentonite.  At one point I suddenly saw llama that appeared to be loose rather than fenced in, and they all looked at me with bemused expressions on their faces as I passed.

I went to the mill of my ex-company as there is a geologist there I know well, and had stayed with for a couple of days in 2012.  Unfortunately he was on leave, and there didn’t seem to be any other people I knew left there, so after a couple of photos, I left and continued west to Cody.  It is about an hour’s drive from Greybull to Cody, across fairly boring Wyoming plains, and once in Cody I went looking for tyres.  I found a place (Bear Co Tyres !) that could get 2 of the BF Goodrich tyres I needed shipped in by noon tomorrow, and although the cost was a bit higher than I would pay in a bigger city, I now really had no choice due to the condition of the one tyre.  Once I had the tyre situation sorted, I decided to go and drive the Bear Tooth Pass, or at least half of it, enabling me to complete the rest of it tomorrow and be back in Cody by noon.
Cody is the home of Buffalo Bill, and the town is awash with tourists, cowboy themes, rodeos every evening during the summer, plus restaurants every 20 feet.  It was seething with coaches and tour groups, partly because of its cowboy heritage, but also because of its proximity to Yellowstone – Many people fly into Cody and do their tours from there.  I headed NW out of town along the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, who was one of the Nez Perce chiefs who lived in this region.  The road quickly leaves the rolling planes behind and you climb slowly upwards into some absolutely breathtaking
mountainous countryside.  Some of the mountains you are seeing in the distance are inside Yellowstone, and then before you get close to the park entrance you leave the Chief Joseph By way and turn north on Hwy 212, the Bear Tooth Pass, which is classed as an “All American Road” – Meaning it is one of a group of their most scenic roads in the country. 


You quickly find yourself stopping repeatedly on the side of the road just to take in the views, and get a few photos.  In several instances I had to do U turns and go back to see the view again because it was just that good.  At this stage there was a white pick up truck doing almost the same as me, and eventually we stopped in the same place and introduced ourselves.  Steve, and his dog Zoe, were heading to Portland Oregon for some work, and he had never been here before and didn’t know about the Bear Tooth Pass.  When I told him, and said I was looking for a camps site, he asked if he could tag along, so we set off at the start of the Pass.

There were supposedly a number of camp sites in the forests, but as we explored them we found them all firmly closed with gates across the access roads.  Since it was now almost July I was somewhat surprised, but we eventually found one that had a campground host in place, and she explained that these sites are never open until early to mid July because there is often still a  lot of snow up here.  Apparently now they are still closed because, despite there not being so much snow last winter, there are still a lot of blown down trees that still need to be cleared to make the sites safe for the public. 

But she was able to suggest that just up the road, next to the Little Bear Lake, there was a dirt road up onto a hill where it would be OK for us to camp, as long as we were careful of bears !  We found the trail, and when we got up there found several more tents already there – They turned out to be Yellowstone employees who were just trying to escape the crowds in the Park for a couple of days they had off !  Steve and I went a little further along the track and ended up in the most perfect spot,
overlooking lakes and wooded hills.  It turned out to be very cold – But that was OK as that and the light wind kept the mosquitoes at bay.  We cooked our suppers, and Steve carried some wood he made into a fire and we sat around chatting for a while before turning in.  I needed to get going fairly smartly in the morning in order to drive the rest of the Pass and get back to Cody by noon.


But pics are here :-  https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/6301339166587274785?authkey=Gv1sRgCLnmiPbDx9OZEA

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