Sunday 5 June 2016

0530 South Brook to Port au Choix


4th & 5th June 2016
Hitchbikers !

I packed up, had a great hot shower, (hey, a “shower” may seem mundane to you homebodies, but a good hot shower when you are on the road is a vital part of daily life !), and then as I set off out of the camp site there were 3 young lads playing with a baseball who waved as I passed and seemed like nice young kids enjoying their camping holiday. So I called them over and we had a chat about the car, and the trip and where I was from, and where they were from, (locals, just out camping for the weekend with mum and dad), and I gave them some Aussie stick pins – And then a lady came over for a chat.  Forgotten her and her husband’s names because I didn’t write them down immediately (and she'll kill me because I know she will read this !), but a delightful couple, originally from S Africa, connection with SASOIL (a company we did a lot of business with), and now living in Calgary. Anyway, had a long and very pleasant chat with them before heading out onto the road to head for Deer Lake.

Not a lot on the road to Deer Lake, plus I had already driven this road before, so it was just a matter of getting on with it.  I passed a couple of touring cyclists on the road, and as usual I tooted them as I passed to say hi and commiserate with all the energy they were expending !   I got into Deer Lake about noon, and had planned to get gas (with a gas card courtesy of Toyota Plaza in St John’s !), and a few minor groceries.  While getting groveries some rude lady tried to push her trolley into me in the vegetable department – Turned out to be the couple from Bedford who I had last seen on Fogo Island !  So had a laugh and a chat.   Having finished my shopping, I noticed a Tim Horton’s  over the road and decided to go in and get a cup of coffee – And then tried one of their cinnamon rolls – Oooh, rather nice, but don’t need too many of them !

So when I walk in to Tim’s, there are the S African couple already there ! So had anther chat with them before they left and I sat down to do a bit of internet.  After an hour or so I was thinking of leaving when a young girl in cycling clothes comes up to me and asks if I am the owner of “that” vehicle outside, the one with all the stickers on it, and the one who had tooted at her as I past her bicycle.  Obviously I couldn’t deny it, so we started chatting – Turn out she, Lizz, is from Wales and is cycling across Canada and hoping to stay in BC for the winter.  One thing led to another and once she knew I was heading in the same direction as her, she asked if it would be possible to give her and her bike a lift into the nearby Gros Morne National Park where she wanted to do some hiking.  So we went outside and worked out if her bike would fit on the back – and after we twisted all the handlebars etc, it did, and her panniers went in the back, so we were off – I had picked up a hitch-biker, as I now understand they are called !  Last hitch-biker I had given a lift to was in Chile !  

By now it was past my lunch time, so when I saw a trail leading down beside a river, I headed down there – and there was an old School Bus as well as an old motorhome there – A bit reminiscent of “Into the Wild” !   We were just making lunch when a big truck comes down the road, and Lizz says “We may have to move.”  I look round and find a big German Overlander truck coming, and told her not to worry !   They pull up and it turns out to be a couple called Peter and  Christine Lambertz from Düsseldorf, and
when we get chatting, we found out that they met our German friends Franz and Ingrid in Alaska a couple of years ago – I was on the ship from Montevideo to Hamburg last year with Franz and Ingrid, and Janet and I later went to stay with them in Germany ! Small world !  As for Lizz, she was now totally non-plussed – Getting a ride, being asked by people outside Tim Horton’s how she was enjoying the trip in Troopie (?!), and now meeting one of the big German trucks she had heard about !    Eventually Peter and Christine went up the trail to camp, while we headed on into Gros Morne NP.

It wasn’t far up the road to the area where Lizz wanted to go – But there were some very steep and long hills into that part of the park, and she started to pale – Even more so when she saw the mountain walk she had intended to trek tomorrow – it was partially snow covered !  A quick discussion ensued and she decided that if possible she would like to go to a different trail which was still just a bit further up the road on my route, so I said no problem.  Long and short of it was that by the time we got there it was getting late, I needed to stop, and the Park camp site was closed !!!   So we ended up with Lizz pitching her tent on the grass in the car park, me setting up in the car park itself, and after cooking Lizz some spag bol for supper (which I think she enjoyed compared to her normal fare when cycling, especially since it included a few of my scallops from yesterday, and a glass of wine !), we ended up camped in the woods of Bakers Brook.

Next morning we were both packed up by about 9, and the walk Lizz wanted to do was the Bakers Brook Trail to a waterfall, and about 9 kms round trip and “easy”, I decided I needed some exercise and went as well.  It turned out to be a great walk on a nice (relatively) warm morning, and was through all the forest of Gros Morne.  We saw a moose early on which decided he wanted to follow us, which had me a bit concerned, so we pushed on until he stopped, and then meandered on through the forest trail which is not only well marked, but also provided good information boards about the local flora and fauna along the way.

The Bakers Brook Falls were well worth the hike – Which wasn’t exactly hard as a lot of was on wooden boardwalks though the bog.  In fact the falls were much better than expected.  There were only another couple of groups on the trail – Funnily one was from Toronto and they offered Lizz a bed when she passed through Toronto !  She admitted more things were happening to her in the last 24 hours than she could quite keep up with ! 



On the way back to the parking lot there was a side trail through an area where the rangers have built a fence to keep the moose out, so people can see the difference between areas where the moose eat (ie kill) nearly all the plants, and areas where all the plants grow unmolested – It is quite a contrast.  Moose were actually introduced here many years ago, and now they have taken over and are causing quite severe problems in the park.  On the way back we also saw a sign to a lake which didn’t seem too far, so we took that too, but by the time we got back to the car park we reckon we
had walked probably about 12 or 13 kms instead of the 9 for the standard walk.  So I was feeling quite pooped, and after a quick bite of lunch, we left Bakers Brook Park and went just a short distance up the road to  Green Point where there was another campsite, and it was an easy cycle from there to Western Brook Pool where Lizz wanted to hike and do the boat tour tomorrow. So I dropped her in the camp site and then headed on north as originally planned.  It had been great having someone to chat to last night, and during the walk today, and I learned a lot about the cycling mentality and how difficult it can be sometimes.  A 5 km detour in the car is nothing – But on the bike it is a major setback !  Anyway, hope Lizz makes it across the country and gets to stay for the winter – My suggestion was that she catch a Greyhound bus across the middle bit, otherwise she might be still cycling across the Prairies in December !!

J
ust up the road after dropping Lizz off, I stopped at the Western Brook Pond site for a look – And it is quite something,  Originally a glaciated fjord into the sea, after the glacier melted the land then rose, and eventually cut off the fjord from the sea, leaving a fjord that is actually a lake with fresh water, but still with the steep sides of a fjord.  It is about a 3 km hike to the water’s edge, and then just one ferry a day up through the fjord, so it is basically an all day excursion.  I decided that I have seen enough Norwegian fjords that I can save my money for something else.  I am sure it is beautiful, but one can’t do everything…….

Next stop was at the Arches Provincial Park – Just a quick stop beside the road to walk down and see some arches that have been carved out by the sea, and are slowly, one by one, collapsing as the erosion process continues.  Interesting to see, especially on another nice sunny afternoon.







This western coastline of the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland is as much an adventure as everywhere else in this great Province.  The coastline gradually gets wilder and sparser as you head north, and after passing a couple of camp sites that didn’t look too exciting I then detoured 13 kms out to the coast to a little town call Port au Choix.  Rather a fun, if bleak and treeless, little town, the campsite was right on the beach, and once again run by the Lions Club.  The facilities were fine, with
heated bathrooms and hot showers, and good wifi.  If the wind had been blowing, it would have been pretty desolate, but as it was a flat calm evening, it was fine, and I set up looking out over the Gulf of St Lawrence.

While I was cooking supper several people went over to the beach and when I joined them found a few whales frolicking in the water just off the beach.  Combined with the sunset light, a perfect setting to the end of the day.


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