Tuesday 24 May 2016

0518 A few days in Gros Morne


21st - 24th May 2016
Trails, tales and tunes - A 5 WOW week !

I have already had a number of 5 WOW days – Days that are very special in terms of scenery, people, or experiences.  But this week has been a first – A 5 WOW week, with every day in that week being full of WOWs too !!  From the moment I met Gavin French last week in Cheticamp, culminating in the 5 days I have just spent with the Hickey family in Norris Point, it has been a week of adventures, incredible scenery, incredibly friendly and welcoming people, and to top it off, stunning weather.  I left this morning after an amazing week, with lots of new friends, and completely exhausted – But with a big smile on my face.  To Gavin (and his Dad Fred, although I know he will NEVER read this !!), to Robbie, Kristen, and their tiny Clare, to Ben and Marie, Robbie’s Mum and Dad, and to all the rest of their family and relatives who made me so welcome, THANK YOU.   Words are insufficient.

This is how the week earned its 5 WOW status !!


After our adventures on Friday just getting to Norris Point, on Saturday morning a group of us plus children and two dogs drove up the road and went on a walk alongside the ocean at Baker’s Brook.  It was again a lovely sunny day, although it is cold in the wind. After the walk we stopped at a seafood place to buy some fresh snow crab, but unfortunately they were sold out – And their crab season is now over so unlikely to get more !  They had lots of fresh lobster, but we didn’t get any of them. We did manage to get some frozen ones instead, as well as some mussels and scallops, and took them home to cook. 

Robert was bbqing some hamburgers on the verandah, while Robbie got his big broiler fired up and got the mussels steamed first.  I have never eaten mussels before but did try some this time (Yes, I did, Janet !), and they actually weren’t too bad !  But I can’t say they were my favourites. Meanwhile Robbie had the crab being steamed, and when that was ready, we dove in, and it was good – Apparently not as good as fresh, but still good !



Sunset that evening was beautiful, lighting up the hill on the other side of the bay, but also the sky behind us.  We then went up to the Town Hall to go to one of the nightly concerts, but unfortunately we couldn’t all get in.  As we had had a late light last night, I was happy to give it a miss, and went home.






The next morning, Saturday, after we had all breakfasted, I took myself for a walk round the headland where someone had seen whales earlier.  I couldn’t see any then so had a good walk round the town.  On the way home I bumped into Kristen who was taking Clare for a walk, and we passed Gavin’s yacht Water Dog that was moored in an inlet.  After that, I took myself on another walk over a nearby hill called Burnt Hill, so named after a fire many years ago destroyed most of the vegetation. I was now feeling very stiff after the digging in the snow on Friday, so although it wasn’t a difficult walk, I took my time completing it.  But lovely views over the various arms and bays around Norris Point, and I was certain I saw some whale activity in the distance, but couldn’t be sure. 

We then went down to the little harbour just 50 metres down the road from the house, to the Cat Stop bar  (where the Catamaran stops ?!) where they have various musical groups playing throughout the day as part of the 10 day long Trails, Tales, and Tunes festival.  Today we saw two very talented young musicians, Emily and Thomas Conway who most impressed me.  We also saw Daniel Paine who was unbelievable on his accordion – how he hits all the right buttons at the speed he plays is a mystery ! 








Later in the evening we went back down to the Cat Stop where The Catch were playing, and I enjoyed them – I don’t get to hear a lot of live music anymore and I thought they were excellent.  There was a very scenic full  moon reflecting on the water outside the bar, and then it was about midnight before we got back to the house and went to bed.

For Monday my plan was to go for a walk in the morning and then set off towards St John in the east in the afternoon.  But when I woke up it was a beautiful sunny day and Gavin texted me to suggest a sail in the afternoon.  This was too good an opportunity to miss, so instead of a walk I had a lazy morning. I should add that there is a LOT of activity going on around here – Ben is doing a lot of work on the house to get it completed so they can live her full time, and his brother Bruce came over today and they were working hard all day.

After some lunch, we set off to find Gavin down at the dock, and when we arrived, he came in to get us in Water Puppy, the dinghy to his yacht Water Dog !  Once aboard, it quickly becomes apparent how beneficial a Cat is in this regard – there were 7 adults, a 4 year old, and a baby, and there was plenty of space for all.  We were quickly underway, and a second benefit of a Cat over a mono quickly became evident – with one engine / prop in each hull, you can turn the yacht on a sixpence.  We motored out of the little bay, and as soon as we had some wind, Gavin had the main sail up and we were off – Advantage number 3 for the Cat – One puff of wind and she just accelerates, while the hull stays totally flat and stable so glasses of wine or cans of beer are (relatively) safe.  Brilliant.

Meanwhile, 10 week old Clare (or is she now 11 weeks after surviving a 5 wow week !), was totally unimpressed, and lay on her back totally oblivious to everything, even the attention bestowed on her by Gavin’s 4 year old  daughter, Amelia.  We sailed around on East Arm for a couple of hours – It was a beautiful sunny day, but the wind still had a bite, so it was jackets all round if you wanted to be on deck. With the steep sides to the inlet, the wind was sometimes fickle, but Gavin had everything under control and we just enjoyed a relaxing couple of hours before we headed back towards Norris Point.

Suddenly someone spied a whale – So we all rushed on deck while Gavin headed towards the area, and soon we were seeing them all over the place.  Finally one surfaced RIGHT in front of us, may be 30 metres ahead, with its mouth wide open, and small caplin fish clearly visible trying to escape the whale’s mouth. We learned to watch the seagulls that couple spot the caplin rising to the surface ahead of the
whale, so when the seagulls gathered, we got our cameras ready. They were all around us for some 20 minutes before we decided to call it a day and head back to harbour, but what a wonderful way to end a 5 WOW week, with a truly 5 WOW afternoon on the water.

Gavin sets off on his round the world sail with his wife Val and 3 children in 2 or 3 weeks time, and I wish him all the best. I am so excited for them because I know what a fantastic adventure they are about to embark on, and what fun they are going to have over the next few years. Enjoy !  I am just so pleased to have been able to help by sanding some of your hull, and now sharing in a great whale adventure.

Once back at the anchorage, Gavin took us ashore and we headed back to the house.  Ben and his brother Bruce had been hard at work all day on the house renovations, while Robbie and Kristen were off to a nearby friend’s house for the evening. I decided that I had had enough excitement for one day / week, so I opted to stay at home with Ben, Marie, and Bruce, and we shared some good Chilean red while eating a steak Ben had bbq’d, and then sat in armchairs and slowly fell asleep ! 








My (further revised) plan is to leave tomorrow morning and generally head east towards St John.  I have been given lots of ideas of places to go and things to see in Newfoundland, so will just wander round this beautiful place for a week or so.  I am really looking forward to it, because this Province is truly stunning – And the inhabitants are pretty friendly too.  I love it.

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