Sunday 15 May 2016

0512 Seafoam to Cheticamp, Cape Breton Island


14th May 2016
Scotland – And rain to go with it !

It was a clear starlit night when I got up at 4 am to check for the Northern Lights, (and go to the loo !), but at 7 am I awoke again to a heavy rain shower.  Luckily it didn’t last too long, and I was able to get up, breakfasted and on my way in dry but overcast conditions.  Had another shower (well, when they are there, you have as many as you can, even if they cost $0.50 a time !), topped up the water tank in anticipation of some more wild camping in the coming days, and also emptied the honey-pot (think about it !).  just as I was (fortunately) finishing that chore, a local came up for a chat – Cameron Beaton.  He is retired, and has a trailer in this camp ground, but has always wanted to go on the road for a while.  He had a motorhome for a while, but his wife didn’t enjoy camping, so he had to sell it.  Unfortunately he has always been held back by family sickness or in more recent times, deaths, but still harbours a wish to go places – Including Australia. We had a really nice chat for half an hour about all sorts of things, and then he gave me a couple of lapel badges for Pictou (local town) and New Glasgow, just up the road past Pictou.  I gave him some of my Australian stickpins for his 4 grandchildren in return.

I have already mentioned the Scottish heritage of Nova Scotia in general, but up here it is at its strongest – In fact Pictou is apparently where the original load of some 200 Scottish migrants arrived on Sept 15th 1773  aboard the good ship Hector. Everything is Scottish – The street names, the towns (inverness, New Glasgow etc), the pubs, while ceilidhs are the big thing around here advertised everywhere.  Even the weather was shortly to turn Scottish !  I went down to the waterfront to see the replica of the Hector, made myself a vegemite sandwich to eat on the road (a usual morning snack for me for elevenses), and set off NE up the coast towards Glasgow.

As Glasgow is the last big town before heading up to the Cape Breton Highlands in the north, I stocked up with a couple of groceries I had forgotten yesterday, filled up with cheaper fuel (Can $0.90 per litre), And then went to Tim Horton’s in order to use their wifi to try to get my blog uploaded.  All I will say is that I think in future I will go and have my coffee in McD’s or Burger King – The coffee and service is not really very good at Tim’s – For instance, if you want sugar, they put it in for you, and I swear they put about 3 teaspoon’s full in !  Wifi wasn’t much better either, although eventually got logged in and got pics posted, and banking done, but by the time I got it all done, it was past 12 noon, and I wanted to get a few miles under my belt, so I left them to serve all the Canadian customers who seem to love their coffee. 

From New Glasgow it was a rather boring cut across inland, with the sky gradually getting greyer and greyer.  The forest here has green fir trees (spruce ?), but all the deciduous trees look grey and dead.  In fact, they are starting to get a bit of a red tinge to them, and they are in fact all in spring bud, so in a couple of weeks it will all look much better.

Passing more ocean inlets (or St George’s Bay inlets, perhaps I should say) we gradually dropped down towards the Canso
Causeway where Cape Breton Island now joins with the rest of Nova Scotia.  Yes it was once truly Cape Breton Island, and is still called that, but in 1955 this Canso causeway was built officially joining it to the mainland.  There is a small swing bridge over a channel to allow shipping to pass through if necessary, but I imagine most ships would go round the north of Cape Breton Island.

By now it was raining hard, and most of the next 90 kms up the west coast of Cape Breton Island was a bit of a blur, with my concentration needed to avoid pot holes and lying water – The roads up here are mostly quite good, but this one today was an exception.   Needs a bit of TLC.  At about 2 pm I did get a brief lull in the rain and took the opportunity to stop and make a quick sandwich, that I then had to eat sitting in the car as the rain came back with a vengeance.

The entire northern part of Cape Breton Island is a National Park, and I was trying to get up there as I knew there would camp sites. I eventually got into Cheticamp along a very scenic cliff top road (or it would be on a nice day !) and it was still raining hard, so I went straight through to the Nat Park on the northern side.  I have a friend of a friend to go and see in Cheticamp, so I will have to hope I can find him tomorrow when hopefully it is not raining so hard.



Found the camp site – Deserted.  But the gate was open so I drove in and found a spot, and basically just put everything on the front seat so I could sit in the back without the roof up.  If it doesn’t stop raining, I will just have some soup or noodles or something, and sleep in the back without the roof up, as I don’t intend to get all wet trying to set the awning up.  Some days (and nights) are easier than others, but that is all part of the adventure. Today has been a bit of a Ho Hum day.  But as I have said before, if life was always perfect, if you always got black wine gums, then there wouldn’t be much point to it all, would there ?

And on that deep note, I will cease my scribble………….

Photos are here :-  https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/6286426070656817569?authkey=Gv1sRgCKDAp-jEyLTf1AE

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