Saturday 9 July 2016

0558 Banff to Jasper to Mt Robson


7th & 8th July 2016
Mountains, glaciers, and ice blue rivers

I was still not sure what to do about the car when I woke up this morning – I just didn’t feel that I had all the facts that would enable me to make not just a logical decision, but also the right decision.  I had spent quite a lot of money getting the problems analyzed, but still had no finite answer either as to what the exact problem was, or whether I could continue with the car as it was.  However I decided to go back down the road about 25 kms to Canmore to get some kind of lubricant I had been told might help me.   I had to try something, and a giving the car a bit of a run might help indicate if it would run OK or not.


So it was back on the scenic road to Canmore, and to NAPA Auto Parts.  Well, they didn’t have what I thought they would have, but they did give me the address of a local Diesel “export” who might be able to shed more light on the issue – So off I toddled to see them – Three Sisters Diesel Repairs – The three sisters being 3 mountain peaks under which the garage was located.

They were helpful, although sometimes you can get too much information and still not be quite sure what to do.  But Wayne was good, and eventually slotted me in and ran more diagnostics on the engine – He said he would be able to pinpoint exactly what was wrong, and I felt that was at least more than I had already.  The mechanical answer is that one of my (two) EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valves is just not working, which means the engine is running without a turbo (which gives me my power), and the whole air flow through the engine is just all wrong, due to the crud that has collected in the intake over the 400,000 kms that Troopie has done.  Probably poor quality diesel in central and south America has accelerated the build up of this crud, and now Troopie can’t breath !  A bit like tar collecting in the lungs of a heavy smoker !!

Wayne suggested that if I replace one EGR valve, I really should replace the other, otherwise that could fail just like the first one.  In addition, there is a solenoid in there which operates the two EGR valves, and there is a good chance this is stuffed too, or very close to being, so this should be replaced too.  As he couldn’t solve my problem, Wayne very kindly didn’t charge me for his analysis, and, with this information, I decided to drive the 300 kms to Jasper and see how the car performed. 

I was also heading to Jasper because my Welsh friends Bernard and Glenys, with whom I had spent the week in Halifax in May when we were waiting for our cars to arrive from Europe, were also passing through Jasper tonight – They were on their way back south having already been to Alaska.  They were already in Jasper by lunchtime so after texting, they found and booked a campsite so we could catch up on a few tales tonight over a beer.

I found the drive north from Banff to Jasper  very interesting – I have been on this road twice before, and both times I have travelled from north to south.  This time I was going in the opposite direction, and the scenery, and feeling of the mountains, was completely different.  Basically the mountains are much higher and more dramatic in the north near Jasper, and as you drive north, the mountains kind of “build”, getting steadily bigger and more dramatic. I passed Castle
Mountain that I knew very well, having spent time there in 2012, and then head on towards Lake Louise.  Those of you who remember my last visit to Lake Louise with Janet in 2014, and also on my own in 2012, will recall that I am not enamored with the Lake.   My personal opinion is that it is vastly overrated, vastly over touristy, and that the fancy hotel there is totally out of place and OTT.  And on the road today were electronic warning signs  that “Lake Louise traffic very heavy”, so I did not even consider stoping there for one millisecond !   It was on towards Mosquito Creek.

Mosquito Creek may not sound much fun, but there is a delightful campsite there and Janet and I spent a night there in 2014 right beside a rushing river, and thoroughly enjoyed it.  I popped in there just to check it out, and it was still a great little camp site.  But too early for me, and anyway I had to meet Bernard and Glenys in Jackson.  From Mosquito Creek, the scenery really builds quite quickly, with the Bow Glaciers up to the left, and then the Bow Pass up at 2067 m, and with snow covered peaks on both sides of the road that reached up to well over 3000 metres.

One is forever passing ice blue lakes or crossing ice blue rivers that flow down off the mountains and the icefields above, and the scenery is just delightful.  On any hills I was having a real problem with Troopie – on the flat she is sluggish, but can hold 100 kmh (or more) quite easily.  But if there is the slightest uphill gradient, she just has no power at all, and I am struggling to even keep going at 50 or 60 kmh in 3rd, on a hill that normally I would romp up at 100 kmh in 5th.  All a bit difficult, but apart from the power she seems OK –
Certainly sounds perfectly normal.  So I was quite annoyed at one stage when I was just building speed to get up one hill – And suddenly the traffic in front stopped completely and I lost all my momentum.  What was it ?  A few very ragged looking mountain goats that some cars had pulled up in the middle of the road to take photos of !!   Why don’t they pull over to the side when they want to stop instead of the middle of the road !!


Eventually we reached the Icefield Centre where the enormous Columbia Icefield lies hidden on top of the mountains to the left, but the Athabasco Glacier feeds down towards the road, as do the Columbia and Saskatchewan glaciers and several other smaller glacial tongues that are fed from the Columbia Icefield.  Covering over 200 sq kms, the Columbia Icefield is the largest mass of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies. I didn’t stop at the Icefield as it is an enormous car park full of every possible vehicle you can think of – Usually large motorhomes, and I didn’t feel I need to explore the Athabasca Glacier again – Stunning through it may be.  I just admired it from afar.

As I approached the amazing Athabasca Falls, where the wide Athabasca River funnels down into a tiny gorge in a stunning display of water power, I suddenly got a phone signal and a text from Bernard came through – I needed to take the Athabasca Falls turn off to get to the Wabasso campsite they had managed to find space in, some 14 kms south of Jasper.  So I just made the turn in time, crossed a bridge right over the top of the Athabasca Falls, and, after watching some people having fun white water rafting on the Whirlpool River, found the camp site, and Bernard and Glenys were already there, had a fire lit, and cold beer in the freezer = Perfect !

It was great to catch up with them again and hear of all their adventures in, and on the way to, Alaska. We had a really pleasant evening round the fire, Glenys cooked the supper, and they also provided some good red wine- They can come to my campsite anytime !!  It was almost midnight by the time we had finished all the wine, and felt it was time to call it a day !



While I slept, my mind was obviously still working, because when I woke up I knew straight away that my mind was made up – I was going to cut out the last part of my planned trip up to Alaska, not fix the car but soldier on with no power, and head almost straight over to my sister’s in Anacortes north of Seattle, and ship the car home.  I don’t feel there is any point in importing parts, paying duty, having to find an (unknown) mechanic to fit them to a car he doesn’t really know, and still not be 100% sure that the problem was fixed.  Anyway, that would take 3 weeks or more, by which time Alaska would be even more crowded in August, and it would almost be time for me to ship home as per my original plans anyway !  And the main part of this trip was to see Iceland, Newfoundland, Labrador, Niagara, and Indianapolis, and I have done that – Alaska was just a fun trip at the end because I like the place so much..  So after an initial feeling of disappointment, I felt fine with that decision.  It is a bit of a bummer to end such an epic adventure on a bit of a downer, but I really can’t complain after over 2 years of fun, adventure, and virtually no mechanical or other issues along the way.  Time to go.  Time to start thinking about the next adventure !!

There are a couple of friends I want to see on the way back to Anacortes, and as they are just down the road, I have a couple of easy days until I get there.  So tonight finds me in the Mt Robson Provincial Park in BC, with mountain and rivers all around.  In the car park I bumped into German travel buddies Franz and Hildegarde who I had met in Glacier NP, so we are neighbours in the camp site tonight. 



I went for a bike ride this afternoon way up a dirt road to check out a hike around the foot of Mt Robson.  It was really pleasant in the sunshine until – As far away from the camp site as I could get on the trail, probably 3-4 kms, I got a flat tyre !  So I had to walk back, carrying the back of the bike.  Someone seems to have it in for me at the moment – I wonder what the 3rd thing is going to be !  But at least I saw a deer on the road on the way back !


Tomorrow I am just going to have another easy day, wandering down towards Vavenby where friends Ed and Sarah live, and I will catch up with them on Monday.  

1 comment:

  1. So great meeting you tonight at North Thompson river provincial park. Kylie was telling her sister all about you and your travels. Take care.

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